March 15
Our last morning in Vietnam before heading to Siem Riep in Cambodia! We have a leisurely breakfast at the hotel before Vu picks us up in the van for the ride back to Da Nang. Here is the view of the rice fields as we head out of town:
In Sa Pa, farmers were just starting to plant the first rice crop of the year while here in Hoi An, where it is much warmer, the first crop is getting close to being harvested and they will have time to bring in two more crops this year. It is no wonder that Vietnam is one of the world's largest rice producers!
Vu guides us through the Da Nang airport, but we run into a problem at the check-in counter. The agent is expecting that we will already have our Cambodian visas while our itinerary says that we will be met at the gate by someone who will expedite our visa and passage through customs. We our reassured by our travel agents on WhatsApp that this is correct, and Vu is finally able to convince the gate agent that we should be allowed to board without a visa.
Direct flights from Da Nang to Siem Riep only happen once a week and today isn't that day so we have to make connections in Ho Chi Minh city (formerly known as Saigon). The flight to Ho Chi Minh city is about an hour. From the air, it looks like Ho Chi Minh city is really huge (population is nearly 10 million - about three times the size of Hanoi) and we can see a huge river flowing through it. I originally thought that this was the Mekong River, but it is actually the Saigon River. The Saigon is large enough for Ho Chi Minh city to have a huge port even though the ocean is perhaps 20 miles to the southeast.
Upon arrival in Ho Chi Minh city, we follow arrows for transfer, but it turns out that the international terminal is outside the building we are in and then two buildings down. There is a long line to have an official check our passports followed by another equally long line to check our boarding passes before going through the security check. By the time we get through security, our 2 hr layover is down to 35 minutes!
The flight to Siem Riep is a little over an hour. In Siem Riep, we are met by a guy who helps us submit our E-application for a Cambodian visa and manages to bring us through the diplomat passport control saving at least an hour in line. Our guy manages to find our driver and guide (Sarnak Uy) and off we go. The sun is setting:
and we haven't eaten since breakfast, but the driver has brought a plate of dried fruits/vegetables (Taro, banana, mango, sweet potato, beets and dried peas). During the drive, Sarnak gives us a detailed history of Cambodia. I wish that I could remember it all! Siem Riep has a population of about 300,000, Phenom Penh has a population of 3,000,000 and the whole of Cambodia of 17 million. Average age is 25 after the killing fields wiped out most of the older population. Sarnak drops us off at a beautiful hotel where they bring us cold, scented towels as we check in. Here is a view of our room:
The bird looks like a roadrunner to me, but I think it must be a phoenix.
Since this was our last day in Vietnam, I wanted to give some final thoughts about the country. Because of the wars (with the French, Americans, and Khmer Rouge), the last 70 years in Vietnam have been truly terrible. As a result of the wars and emigration of many people from the south of the country, the average person in Vietnam is only 34 years old and has little or no memory of the wars. I don't know if this is the reason, but everyone we met in Vietnam, whether a peddler in a vegetable market, or one of the ethnic minority people in the mountains or the people in our hotels, were extremely friendly. Not only that, but there is also a feeling among most of the population that the best days for Vietnam are coming shortly. They can see that companies are starting to shift investment to Vietnam as the labor force in China becomes more expensive and the standard of living is starting to rise rapidly as new opportunities open up. In addition, the country is beautiful. We could have easily spent our entire three weeks here as we never saw the southern half of the country. We are so glad that we made Vietnam one of our stops on the Indochina Express!